We’d stopped for lunch in what felt like a toothless gap along a craggy ridge of the mountains. Two walkers were descending from the peak to our left and I couldn’t help but study them as they made their way down. From a distance it appeared like a sheer vertical drop; once false move and it felt they could have fallen to their end. I don’t know how to describe that feeling when you are watching something with fear and excitement at the same time. Exhilaration?